Posted on January 27, 2010 by Bahi Para
Categories: Blog
Posted on January 27, 2010 by Bahi Para
Categories: Blog
We’ve put our London training course on hold but we hope to reschedule soon.
Keep an eye on these pages or drop us a line if you’d like to be updated when we have our next sessions booked—if you could mention your location, how far you’d be prepared to travel and (briefly) your current workflow, that would be useful, too. Sorry to disappoint any of you who were still hoping to book a place. We hope to be back with something for you soon!
Meanwhile, we’re still taking bookings for one-on-one Lightroom courses in London or the South East, delivered at your studio, office, or home and designed specifically for you (after we’ve discussed your requirements) so get in touch if you’d like more details. You can call 0333 577 5703 or e-mail. We offer prices for one-day and two-day training, for professionals and serious amateurs.
Posted on January 11, 2010 by Bahi Para
Categories: Blog
[Last updated: October 2010. Links and information and now current again for Lightroom 3 instead of Lightroom 2.]
Here’s some more detail on how to get hold of a copy of Lightroom (official name: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3) in the UK. There are Amazon listings but also tips on buying, cross-platform compatibility, licensing and on the various versions. available.
Anyone looking at Lightroom for the first time should turn first to the 30-day trial. It’s wise to try before you buy. Even if you’ve already run a previous version of Lightroom on a 30-day trial (i.e., a version older than 3.2, which is current at the time of writing), you’re still entitled to a 30-day trial of version 3.2 and you’ll find no issues downloading and running it. (Useful if your previous trial showed incomplete support for your new camera or lens.) The trial is the perfect start—test the software and see how you get on with it. During the trial, there are no restrictions whatsoever on functionality. After the trial, you won’t be able to use the application but when you later buy it and activate it, you’ll find you’ve lost none of your work—when the trial expires, the software doesn’t delete the images (obviously…) or the adjustments you’ve made to them.
If you’re looking for an upgrade version or an academic version for students and teachers, scroll down. To view the Amazon UK listing for the full retail version of Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3, click the icon immediately below.
We use and trust Amazon so we’re happy to use affiliate links to the UK store. They’re reliable, their refund policy is good and they no longer charge for super saver delivery, regardless of item cost.
That little picture of Lightroom 3 above this text should always display the current Amazon price for the full Lightroom 3 retail product so check back to see it change over the days ahead.
One thing to watch out for when you order from the Amazon site: make sure you know whether you’re ordering directly from them or from an Amazon reseller. If it’s an Amazon reseller, check the reseller’s reputation and delivery charges before ordering.
If you’re looking for the Student and Teacher edition of Lightroom 3 from Amazon UK, click the picture below to see the full listing.
Important note: you will need to prove your entitlement to run this academic-users version of Lightroom 3, and I believe you will need to supply photo ID as part of that process. If you’re looking for the full retail version, use the previous link.
For this upgrade to work, you’ll need Lightroom 1 or Lightroom 2 legally installed (i.e., with a valid serial number) . To view the full listing, click the icon below.
This is an interesting option that not very many people seem to use but which we’ve found very useuful. Previously branded Froogle, it’s not a retailer or reseller—it’s a product listing generated by Google from online retailers, with prices and online reputations visible to buyers. For each retailer, it also lets you know whether you can use Google Checkout (an alternative to PayPal) to pay. It’s good for all sorts of things that you can buy online, including cameras and lenses. At the very least, it gives you good overall guideline prices that you can use when you shop.
To get you started, here’s an initial search that attempts to exclude versions of Photoshop CS4 and CS5 that seem to appear on Froogle when you search for Lightroom, as well as attempting to exclude upgrade versions of Lightroom. (Inevitably, one or two of the items listed are still upgrades.) Before you click on the logo below, read through the search tips that follow. You’ll then feel more confident about modifying the search terms inside the Google search box and experimenting to widen or narrow your search.
Search tips for Google Product Search:
An Adobe Lightroom box always includes both the Mac and Windows versions—not just one or the other—so you don’t need to worry about which platform to buy for. This is part of a new approach by Adobe and one that we hope will spread to its other product lines.
If you buy any full version of Lightroom 3 (for example v3.0 or v3.2), you can upgrade to the latest version of 3.x for free using the same product key. Just make sure you buy v3.0 or higher and you’re set.
Like most Adobe licences, the agreement for Lightroom permits you to install the product on one desktop machine and one portable but not to use them on both machines simultaneously.
We’re not affiliated or associated with Adobe, Google or any retailer, service or product listed here in any way except for Amazon UK. We only list products and services that we continue to find useful. If you buy a product from Amazon UK after clicking through one of our links, we get a small commission of up to £7.
We’re taking bookings for our one-on-one photographic workflow training, delivered at your studio, office or home, over one or two days. Bespoke Lightroom tuition in London (and the South East), delivered by a friendly, knowledgeable instructor, at your pace.
Call us on 0333 577 5703 or e-mail develop@shootraw.co.uk to arrange a time to talk (for free) about exactly which aspects of your digital photography workflow are holding you back. We build a course for you and make the difficult stuff seem easy! Start by visiting our contact form: click here. We look forward to hearing from you.
Posted on December 17, 2009 by Bahi Para
Categories: Blog
In a recent article, Cnet’s Stephen Shankland makes some interesting points about raw files vs JPEGs in your photographic workflow. Here’s one that everyone should consider and which we continually emphasise to photographers:
If you’re converting a raw image with software, you not only get more computing horsepower than a camera offers, you get algorithms that are updated.
He’s absolutely right. Put differently: raw files from several years back can look incredibly good when processed using the best of today’s raw converters—much better than they ever did when they were first taken.
JPEGs produced by expensive professional cameras, even recent ones, shot in difficult conditions (low light, mixed lighting, high contrast) are completely outclassed by raw files from the same camera, taken at the same time, processed in today’s best raw converters. When you tell the camera that all you want is a JPEG file, you have to make decisions that are often better left till later (things like sharpening, contrast, colour space, white balance, noise reduction—none of these settings affect the raw file in any way) or ask the camera to make them for you. In many cases, the decisions you make are difficult or time-consuming to reverse later and have a permanent effect on the quality of your photographs.
Today’s raw converters deal with colour fringing, overexposure, underexposure, sharpness, noise, detail and resolution much better than most cameras’ JPEG engines. Whether you shoot professionally or for pleasure, if you’re serious about image quality, choosing to shoot raw makes sense and costs just a tiny amount of disk space.
Yesterday’s gone but you’ll have gathered the point of this post: the raw images you shoot today are likely to look even better in tomorrow’s raw converters. To start with, all you need to do is tell your camera to shoot raw—and if you don’t know what to do with a raw file yet then set your camera to shoot raw plus JPEG and store the raw files safely away somewhere. They’re your digital equivalent of film negatives and there’ll come a time when you’ll be very pleased that you still have them.